Sealed Concrete Floor
Old concrete sealing and enhancing
Look outside the next time it rains and watch as the concrete sidewalks absorb the water. The nature of concrete is that it's porous when exposed to elements and is unsealed. This sustainable quality is ideal for the environment and the circulation of rain runoff as it is absorbed into the earth. However, inside a home, spilled water or liquids settling onto a concrete floor for even a few minutes can not only be absorbed but will stain an unsealed floor.
Just as the word indicates, a topical sealant lays on top of the concrete without penetrating the surface. Several types of topical sealants are available in prices that vary from inexpensive to more costly.
Acrylic: This thin layer acts as a protectant for the concrete and is easy to apply. It repels water and chloride, but has a minimal effect on vehicle fluids and road salt. The best remedy is to clean the floor as soon as a spill is noticed. Sealing with an acrylic doesn’t require substantial hardware and the floor can be walked or driven on within a day. Reapplication should be done anywhere between 18 to 24 months.
Floor Coatings: More involved to apply than simple acrylic—and more expensive—are epoxy, polyurethane and polyurea, and polyaspartic coatings. Epoxy is the most cost-effective of these floor coatings and is thicker than acrylic, providing more protection for your floor. Preparation for epoxy is also more complex, requiring paint brushes, rollers and a quick hand for the task. Epoxies also last longer than acrylics and should be figured into the higher cost as a redo is unnecessary for several years.
Acrylic: This thin layer acts as a protectant for the concrete and is easy to apply. It repels water and chloride, but has a minimal effect on vehicle fluids and road salt. The best remedy is to clean the floor as soon as a spill is noticed. Sealing with an acrylic doesn’t require substantial hardware and the floor can be walked or driven on within a day. Reapplication should be done anywhere between 18 to 24 months.
Floor Coatings: More involved to apply than simple acrylic—and more expensive—are epoxy, polyurethane and polyurea, and polyaspartic coatings. Epoxy is the most cost-effective of these floor coatings and is thicker than acrylic, providing more protection for your floor. Preparation for epoxy is also more complex, requiring paint brushes, rollers and a quick hand for the task. Epoxies also last longer than acrylics and should be figured into the higher cost as a redo is unnecessary for several years.
Siliconate Sealer: If it’s good enough for your front pathway, then it’s good for your garage or basement. It’s good for about 10 to 20 years, depending on quality of concrete grinding and surface prep, and usage. Considering the long-term cost of the sealer, and the minimal cost of application materials, this may be the most cost-effective of the concrete sealers.
Concrete Densifier and Sealer Combination: If you want to repel dust, strengthen the consistency of your concrete and repel fluids, consider this combination for your floor. It’s best applied just after the concrete polished, but can be a retrofit if necessary.
Concrete Densifier and Sealer Combination: If you want to repel dust, strengthen the consistency of your concrete and repel fluids, consider this combination for your floor. It’s best applied just after the concrete polished, but can be a retrofit if necessary.